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May
9
Written by:
reh
5/9/2010
6:00AM Plane left from BBH and arrived in Dallas as scheduled.
9:30AM Plane left from Dallas and arrived in Teguci as scheduled. The plane was completely full, as usual.
The Health Department of Houston set up a position just before the in-country processing stations. You filled out a form that included questions about if you felt bad, had a fever, etc or if you had been around anyone who had. They took your picture. I believe if you answered in the affirmative you would be quarantined for 3 days. This is an effort to control Swine Flue. I am told that Swine Flue is not a problem in Honduras (am not sure what “is not a problem” means). Customs has me open the vitamins but sent me through when they were satisfied that they were vitamins; actually, Kristi, the agent was sympathetic to the fact that the vitamins would be given to school children.
1:00PM Checked into Hotel Guijarros.
2:00PM Went by Spanish School. Wasn’t too surprised when they weren’t ready. Am not going to start till work sheets are developed. When the instructor adlibs as the day progresses, the class is not too effective. I said I’d come back Monday. Am going to use this opportunity to go to Lake Nicaragua just because I have wanted to return since my original motorcycle trip.
4:00PM Dinner at Italian restaurant. Good restaurant; bad choice of food.
Thursday, June 11, 2009
4:30AM Up and on my way to King Quality Autobus. King Autobus is scheduled to leave at 5:30AM. The taxi was late but the bus didn’t actually leave till 6:00AM. At the Honduras/Nicaragua border, there was a Swine Flu check point as at the airport, but not nearly so sophisticated; no camera, no digital signs). Simply a form/check list that each must fill out. I think this procedure does more to heighten awareness than it does to protect.
2:00PM Managua bus station. I re-learned a lesson. I asked an employee of the bus line how much he thought a taxi would cost to Granada. “About $40” and lead me to a taxi driver (only registered taxies are allowed in this area so he got me in the right direction. The taxi driver said $30 to Granada. OK, put bag in trunk, climbed in and off we went. As we drove along, I showed him the hotel address and he said “Oh, that will be $15 more" (actually, I found out later the hotel is downtown and minutes from the bus station). Choices: get out with my bags in midtown Managua-a really bad idea. Tell him to go back? He would charge me about as much as the extra or drop me off on the spot… By the time you are done, the best thing to do is suck it up, admit you were bamboozled, and go to the hotel.
3:00PM Registered and walked around/rode around. Reminds me of a small Oaxaca.
7:00PM In the room for the night. End of day.
6:45AM Was out looking for a cup of coffee at 6:00AM but nothing was open! Am having a latte and breakfast at Café Don Simon. Coffee is not all that great. Read local paper-the Swine Flue “epidemic” has not crested yet and caution is advised.
9:00AM Setting up for a boat ride around some of the islands on the lake. The tour guide is really good and took extra time but all the small islands are topped with huge mansions owned by Central America moguls. Once I have seen a few, I’ve seen enough. But the flora is beautiful and I am glad I went. Next time I will set up to take the ferry to the main (active volcano) island, stay over, and come back.
11:30AM Stopped by a small coffee shop for a latte; much better! Walked to the marcado looking for the area where hand-woven blankets and clothes are displayed by various Indian communities but all I found was a marcado the same as the one in any Latino city.
2:00PM Back at the central park, ordered a “local” lunch recommended by the boat guide. Wasn’t that good and am not sure about the water they used; we’ll see.
4:00PM Took a short nap. Am in for the evening. End of Day
6:30AM Asked receptionist to check that King Quality Autobus leaves for Teguci at 4:00PM. I intend to see the volcano and go to the bus station and spend the night at Nacaomi. Had breakfast, packed, checked out. The receptionist talked with the bus station, they have a bus at 11AM and 3AM! I’ll see the volcano next time.
8:45AM Am off to the Managua bus station. Observation: Granada is safe and clean. The financial crisis is really taking its toll. All the hotels are sparsely populated. I would recommend this town to anyone. Be careful getting there; Managua is not a safe city. Really great for those of us that are there, but tough on businesses. Will be interesting to see if the town remains clean and well maintained as the economic crisis continues. Incidentally, King Quality Autobus used to be so full that getting a ticket the day before was a good idea. Now you can go just before departure and get a ticket; there are many empty seats.
11:30AM On my way to Nacaomi. At bus station. Bus ticket costs the same to the Oases in Nacaomi as to Teguci - go figure. Also, ticket to Managua was $38. Ticket back is $42. The clerk said something about taxes.
6:30PM Fernando picked me up at Oases. Drove to motel, had a few beers with Fernando as we caught up on personal events; will leave L4L for the morning.
My last visit was in March. So much has happened. The kitchen project at Almendros is finally moving along. When I was here last, Fernando set up a meeting with the parents through the school principal. She is a competent principal but is too reserved and unassuming to be a community leader. She got the word out that we were having a meeting but didn’t explain what it was about. Nobody knew how to react to our kitchen proposal. It was obvious that the parents really want it but were caught off guard and didn’t know how to respond (see March Trip Log for details). The Alcalde Valosquez had a second meeting during April and things got moving. Sand was delivered, supplies were delivered and ground was turned. The community really wants the kitchen but without a strong school leader, little was happening. Finally about 2 weeks ago the community had another meeting set up by Pastor Pablo Velasquez Ortez. The meeting was well attended. One of the men, Mr. Elvin Yobany Rubi took charge, assigned work tasks and set up a schedule. There is a community fundamentalist church. Fernando talked with the pastor and he threw his support and influence behind the project. The project finally got moving. The foundation frame/footers have been dug and poured. The walls will start next week. During our tour this morning, the self-appointed community leader came by and said that all we can see is foundation work, if we come back at the end of this week we will see some real progress. We said we would come back. Fernando believes that our promised return inspection at week’s end will really spur them on. We’ll see.
The Alcalde told Fernando that he doesn’t have any kitchen money right now. Fernando thinks there is a real possibility that he will not have any money during the course of this project and asked what we should do. I said “Fernando, I’ll worry about the money, you worry about getting the kitchen built”. Fernando was very relieved because if the kitchen goes on hold, community momentum will die and Fernando (and I) believes the project will not be revived. I hope somebody besides me does not feel relieved.
I asked Fernando if he thinks the Honduras government will maintain grain and legume shipment through the year. He told me that last month no grain or legumes were delivered to any schools. Fernando did not deliver replacement grain and legumes. He said Roxana called him and said L4L was to supply short-falls but he didn’t think we were to do that. I have said to him and at every community meeting that L4L will provide shortfalls. I have no idea how he could not know. I also don’t know why he didn’t call me. I told Fernando that we were to make up shortfalls as per the formula he got from the United Nations schedule. He was concerned that the cost would be tremendous. I explained again, that providing a complete meal is the reason L4L exists. He says the schools were so happy for the milk… I have no idea what happened at lunch time. These shortfalls in poorer areas are so common even Fernando shrugs it off. I’ll reinforce our position on a full lunch in an email to Fernando when I return. Grain and legume shipments were provided by the Honduras government this month but I think we just had glimpse of what is coming. I have said many times and will say again; we in the US have no idea of the terrible negative impact the financial crisis is having on poor countries.
Another little situation that we will have to live with as it shifts itself out: To set the stage, you know that kindergartens are commonly set up as a separate school run by a principal (who is often also the only teacher). The government does this because they recognize that kindergarten kids can’t walk as far to school as children just a year older. It is common to have two or three stand-alone kindergartens that feed one grade school. In picking up new schools, Fernando called the principal of a kindergarten and set up a meeting for a specific afternoon and called the Principal of Jose Angel Serr Elementary School principal that is just across a dirt road from the kindergarten. The grade school principal said Fernando would have to come the next day. Fernando said he couldn’t because he had a schedule, either the principal would set up a school meeting or the school would not be included in the program. The upshot of the whole thing is that we have a kindergarten in the L4L program but not the grade school right next door. Fernando feels that L4L is best off not working with the grade school. I don’t understand the situation; after all, the same parents of the kindergarten kids are the parents of the grade school kids. And I really don’t like kids looking out the window to see other children eating. I’ll have more to say about this by the end of next week.
8:00AM Fernando and I were on the road till 2:00PM checking out the kitchen and discussing various projects.
3:00PM In the motel compound taking notes, trying to get on internet, etc.
6:00AM Fernando and I are on the road to Teguci. Lots of traffic through Teguci; to be expected. Glad Fernando is driving.
8:20AM At Spanish class. Fernando set out to order sign for school sponsored by Rotary Club and order L4L polo shirts for Steve Gulledge and son.
12:00PM Lunched at El Toro’s (a grilled steak place). A little tough but plenty of food.
1:00PM Went to wholesale store where Fernando gets milk.
2:30PM At the hotel, Fernando on his way to Nacaomi. Took some notes, records, ets.
4:00PM This is the point in the trip where evenings start to drag. End of day.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
7:30AM Decided to walk to school. It’s not that hot, the walk is all downhill, it’s about 20 minutes. School till noon. Good instructor...
2:00PM Hector McNaught, our photographer, and I met at the hotel. He has an acceptable working relationship with Fernando (remember, Fernando thinks paying a photographer is a total waste). After going over administrative and logistical subjects, we called Hannan’s office to discuss procedure for Hector to enter photos directly into our website photo library. Very productive meeting.
4:30PM Hector left, doing some notes. End of day.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
7:30AM Walked down the hill to class, the only exercise I have been getting lately.
8:00PM In school till noon
1:00PM Rental car arrived. My Honduras driver’s license was accepted without question. Many times, rental car agencies require a driver’s license from a country that matches your passport.
3:00PM At the motel in Nacaome. Fernando and I drove to Los Almendros to deliver lunch supplies and check on the kitchen. It seems that someone in the community had died. I am told that in these very small secluded communities, there is a 3 day mourning period where things stand still out of respect. Nothing had been done on the kitchen. I did have an opportunity to meet Pastor Pablo Velasquez, the pastor who got the community going, and Mr. Elvin Yobany Rubi. Both assured me that things would start moving quickly tomorrow.
4:30PM In the compound. End of day
7:30AM Fernando set out to deliver lunch supplies. First stop: El Picacho, Principal, Jose Reyes. I wanted to be sure all is in order for Steve’s visit. School was closed. Either he was joining other principals at a new school dedication or at a new school for a conference. Wasn’t clear which but he is not here. Drove to the new school. The meeting was to start at 9:00 and it is now 9:00. Teachers are just starting to arrive and Mr. Reyes was not there.
11:00AM In Goascoran to see if we could meet with the Alcalde Valesquez. He just left for Teguci and will be back tomorrow.
1:00PM At El Amatillo to deliver school supplies. Talked with Roxana for a few minutes.
2:30PM Went to Playa del Borro for fish. Not all that good.
5:00PM Pretty much a wasted day. In the compound. End of day.
7:00AM Took some framing planks to kitchen project in El Amandreus. Still no action. Pastor Ortez and Mr. Rubi are out of town (separately) on business so there is really nobody to talk with. Fernando and I are seeing a real problem. Our manager is working by himself. I told Fernando to have his manager take a helper with him from Nacaomi. We will pay the helper. We will talk with the pastor and Mr. Rubi tomorrow. In this community the mothers really pull together and they need a kitchen. In the long run, this is for the kids. If the fathers won’t jump in with both feet, I will tell Fernando to hire two other helpers from Nacaomi and get the kitchen built. This is not going well, but as we often say, if it were easy the kids wouldn’t need us.
9:00AM At Picacho, confirmed arrangements for Steve.
10:00AM Meeting with Ms. Mayra Nunez about Rotary Club sponsoring her school. She will write a letter of appreciation for me to take back.
11:30AM The kindergarten where Fernando’s daughter goes is selling lunch as a fund raiser. We went by and had some barbeque beef, baked beans, and salad.
1:30PM Meeting with David Matute of Benito Montoya. I explained that Messiah, Madison had contributed to their school and was considering sponsoring their school. He will write a letter of encouragement.
3:00PM Long day. Fernando went home and I’m taking notes.
8:30AM There has been a tremendous amount of rain each evening; even for the rainy season. Somehow, rain got into Fernando’s roof and shorted out his electrical system. He is late because he had to get an electrician. Fernando does not think we should drive all the way to Los Almendros. He thinks we should call the principal Ms. Gonzales, explain the lack of action, register our concerns, ask her to talk to Pastor Ortez and community leader Mr. Rubi and call us back. He called. To jump ahead; Ms. Gonzales called back in about two hours and assured us that a full crew would be out there each day next week. I told Fernando to watch things the first few days of next week. If volunteers don’t show up as scheduled, send 3 paid helpers out to the job with our paid manager and get the job done. I gave specific instructions not to hire any men from the community; the kitchen is for their kids, they should volunteer their time.
9:30AM At escuela Dionicio de Herrera in the community of El Junquillo, Nacaome, Valle District. Got GPS location. Things are not going good at Fernando’s house and the electricity is off to the town so Fernando’s wife’s lab is without electricity and she can’t start the generator. We headed back to town.
10:30AM Dropped Fernando off at his house.
12:00PM Fernando called. Roxana is at his house and wants a two month advance for her cook ($160). They came to the motel so Roxana could explain. It seems that the cook needs glasses. I heard a different story. I think the L4L BoD will tell me that standard accounting procedures require that Fernando pay the cook with a check or that Fernando get a signed receipt from the cook if cash is required. I think we will get Roxana out of that loop.
3:00PM Fernando and I went to San Lorenzo for fried fish. During dinner, I explained to Fernando that we would probably have to find an independent, licensed CPA to audit our books annually and that we would have to coordinate this with our US requirements. I asked if Fernando knew of some unrelated to his family or family businesses that he could recommend. He does. Almost as a “funny you should mention it but…” Fernando explained that our L4L Honduras charter requires that we submit a yearly independent audit to the Honduras government. He said that audit houses charge by the volume of money that goes through the company and that our fee would be $1,500. He said he ignored the requirement last year because it is so much money but has read in the newspaper recently that the government has been stopping renewals on foreign companies that have been ignoring the requirement. I explained that we rely on him to keep L4L current with all submittals and fees associated with our charter and various licenses. I explained that we have to rely on him as nobody in the US understands the system. He says the annual auditor’s fee of $1,500 is the biggie; other fees/licenses/etc will to $30 to $50per item every so many years. I told him to set up a chart of activities. He’ll start on it. It looks like we will have to designate a budget line item for auditing and licensing fees.
6:50PM In the compound. End of day.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
7:00AM On the road to Teguci.
9:00AM In the hotel. Rental car is turned in. Rested, studied Spanish.
5:00PM In compound. End of day
7:45AM Walked down the hill to class.
8:00AM Spanish Class. I’ve got to remember the name of the school. Instituto Hondureno de Cultura Interamericana (IHCI); address: Centro Comercial Lomas del Boulevard, Blvd. Morazan; phone 221-4479.
12:00PM Walked to Hotel Escuela Madrid. People were nice and good view but just not quite nice enough.
1:00PM Had a salad lunch at the bottom of the hill and walked back to room.
7:30AM Walked down the hill to class. My instructor asked why I was sweaty (just a little showing through my shirt, not like running). I said I walked to school. He told me not to do that, especially while carrying a business bag. He says the thieves ride by, pull up, point a gun in your face, take what you have and drive off. His wife was driving their car in traffic the previous week when a motorcycle drove up and robbed her. I asked why a person doesn’t speed away (other than the obvious traffic congestion). He said because they will shoot you, they just don’t care. I asked if he thinks Teguci is more dangerous than 5 years ago or simply a continuum. He said more dangerous now, partly due to the worsening economy. I asked what must be done, beyond expanding jobs (which won’t happen), he had no answer.
6:30PM Went to a local “safe area “ for a beer, actually back over by the Hotel Maya. It was a diversion, a way to use a few hours but the boredom is always present.
8:00PM In the room. End of day
7:30AM Took a cab to class.
12:00PM Took a cab to the motel. Rental pick-up arrived at 12:30.
1:00PM On my way to Nacaomi.
3:00PM Fernando and I are at the motel. Fernando explained that the Honduras Government is setting up a disaster response team. The leader for this area is Alcalde Valosquez. The Alcalde had a meeting with the major responsible parties in the area such as the Chief of Police, Chief of the Electric Company, Health Department Director, Manager of Lunches for Learning, and others. Offices such as Pres (Alcalde), VPrers, Treasurers, etc were assigned. Fernando was appointed to a position similar to Treasurer. I will have Fernando write a memo with specifics.The point I want to make is that L4L is becoming established as a responsible member of the community. Now, if we can just continue to pay the bills… Fernando and I drove to Los Almendros to check out the kitchen project. Foundation finished and walls halfway up! Some real progress for a change. Mr. Rubi, the community “President” came over while we were walking around the project. We expressed our extreme pleasure and surprise; he looked a little more proud than he did the week earlier. Completion date is 3 weeks, we’ll see. Everything is set up for our meeting tomorrow at 2:00PM.
5:30PM In the compound. End of day.
8:00AM For those of you who count on me to keep you up to date on all things Honduran, this will be a real disappointment. I missed this by so much, it even embarrasses me. Let me start with what I did know: The Honduran Constitution requires that a President and Vice President serve only one term in a lifetime. The constitution further requires that no person running for President or Vice President be holding a public office prior to running. The most recent election was held 3 ½ years ago. The President, Manuel Zeloya Rosales of the Liberal (red) party is a farmer/rancher with little political experience. The Vice President, Elvin Santos, is a businessman with a political background: he openly opposes the President on most major issues. The Vice President’s wife is our friend. Four years ago, Jorge described the then upcoming election as a contest of a good man being backed by bad money vs. a bad man being backed by good money (good man/bad money won). Once elected, the President became wildly famous for huge political guffaws and getting everyone mad at everyone else. Even the Majority Leader of Congress (he is called the President of Congress in Honduras) is of the same party but openly opposes the President on most issues. Good ideas; really bad execution. I could give a bunch of examples but won’t burden you. Most attributed this to an inexperienced man being thrown into a very difficult job. About two years ago there was talk about the Vice President resigning over one thing or another. All of this, I knew.
Now, what I didn’t know: Two years ago the Vice President quit; the country has been without a VP since. Some say he quit out of protest over constitutional issues; others say he quit to meet the 2 year requirement that a presidential candidate cannot be holding a public office (for two years) prior to running for office. The President set up a blue ribbon panel to determine if the constitution actually limits the Presidency to one term. Venezuela’s president Chavez influences the panel. The panel somehow decided that the people could vote on this particular issue. The president set up a vote for this Sunday. The Blue party vehemently disagreed saying there is nothing in the constitution about voting on any such thing. They are boycotting the election as illegal. This “interpretation” was taken to the Honduras Supreme Court. The Supreme Court declared the “interpretation” incorrect and the election illegal. The President filed an appeal and pushed ahead with the election.
Current events: Yesterday, the heads of the Army, Navy, and Air Force resigned stating that they are bound to uphold and protect the Constitution of Honduras, not the President of Honduras. Since the Supreme Court found the elections to be illegal, they could not, in good conscience, protect this illegal action of the president. Today, we have a Honduras president with no vice president and without the support of the military still planning to hold an election declared illegal by his own Supreme Court. I hasten to tell you I see absolutely no evidence of this precipitating into any form of violence at any level. Even Government officials see this more as an administrative process. Everyplace, things go on the same as yesterday. The public watch this, or not, on TV much as we watch, or not, the week-long college basketball finals. Options:
· President declares himself King of Honduras and push forward. Not likely.
· President admits that he is wrong and put Humpty Dumpty together. Not likely.
· Military take over. Not likely (the joke being they can’t afford the bullets necessary to seize power- a chuckle to indicate you understand this inside joke, please).
· Things will bungle along for 6 months till the next election. Likely.
The big deal, right now, is if the elections declared illegal by the Supreme Court are still held on Sunday. If so, what comes of the outcome-that will support the president’s view? If the president tries to run for a second term in 8 months based on this vote, there may be military involvement. Again, I don’t think this will deteriorate to violence unless Chavez or his ilk, provide arms to the opposition (actually, the president’s backers in this case).
Last week, while talking with Mr. Rene, Fernando and I were invited to El Barrial for bean tomalleys. El Barrial is the school where one must ford the river and this the rainy season. I was informed that a new road had been opened that comes into the back side of El Barrial so we could simply drive in. A big deal! Everyone was quick to mention it. The road is at least two categories worse than the road to 3 de Octobre. We were in a 4x4 high center pick-up and we barely made it. The steep areas were steeper, the creeks were more frequent and deeper, the mud bogs were wider, and the boulder fields were more treacherous. I didn’t think to look at the odometer, but the drive took over an hour.
Whether by “road” or river, it is a true joy to visit El Barrial. The kids are so happy to see us, so country-innocent, so lively, so poor. The mother/cook handing out the tomalleys could make Kojak or Patten whimper. She sees that all get their share; the bigger kids a little more. Once everyone is fed she gives out seconds till all comers are satisfied. Never says a word, never smiles; just makes sure every child gets all they want.
In every situation, there is the bitter with the sweet. I think pastors understand this; I know project managers don’t (or at least this one doesn’t). A 6th grade girl is sitting along a side wall looking down at her assignment trying too hard to be inconspicuous. Fernando told me she can’t eat because her parents won’t help with the lunch program (at least, that was my translation). I immediately asked to see the principal who was outside. The principal assured me that the girl certainly could eat and is invited every day. The little girl’s parents forbid her from eating any of the school lunch and she is punished harshly if she does. I asked why. The principal said he had no idea, simply that the parents (probably the father) are a little odd. The little girl didn’t bring any lunch with her and I asked if the parents could provide sufficient food for good health. The principal gave a shrug that said I doubt it. The little girl never looked up from her book; she really did not want the attention. At the end of the entire lunch process, General Patton’s nemesis put two tomalleys on a plate, quietly set it next to the little girl and left; knowing the girl would not eat it and knowing there is nothing more she can do. On the way out of town, Fernando asked if I thought he should talk with the little girl’s parents. I told him that he should not; this is a parental issue first and a community issue secondly. No good can come from us meddling.
Why does there have to be the dark side to every ray of light?
12:00PM Making copies and getting ready for the principals meeting at 1:00 which really means 1:45.
1:45PM I opened the meeting by explaining that our major donors would appreciate a comment of appreciation. All understood and are enthusiastic to participate.
3:00PM Meeting adjourned. The interpreter, Juan Rosa (cell 9 953 9077) maintains control and translates accurately. We will use him in the future.
7:15PM Fernando and I went to another of his local hangouts. Actually, a very quiet place.
9:30PM In the compound. End of night.
7:30AM Fernando and I set out to take GPS readings at the new schools. The first new school is further out than I’ve been so far. We ride along a well maintained dirt road for 30 minutes then turn onto a road/creek bed. 20 minutes later we are at the school. We repeat this for the second school. Further on is the third school. Fernando made some really good choices; the schools are really rural and really poor. L4L will have a positive impact on these communities. Here is where I need some feedback:
Remember a year ago Fernando, Jennifer, and I were interviewed on a local TV station. The principal of this school wrote and delivered a petition. The petition said all the right things but this school was so far away from any of our schools we simply could not justify going there. Now it is just up the road from our most distant school. This school compound contains a kindergarten that is totally separate from the grade school and is assigned its own principal; the grade school; and a middle school of 7th and 8th graders with its own principal. Fernando went to the grade school. It seems that the principal is on maternity leave and a temporary principal is there (the central government assigns temporary principals; sometimes a local teacher, sometimes they assign someone with no relationship with the community). Fernando explains L4L and asks if a meeting with the parents can be arranged for some afternoon as L4L does not want to take up the kid’s school time. The principal said Fernando could have a meeting in the morning but she wasn’t staying around for an afternoon meeting. The kindergarten principal said she would set up a meeting for her school any time, any day. The kindergarten principal has set up a little lean to off the side of the kindergarten building where the mothers cook lunch for kindergarten. The temporary principal simply divides the government provided grains/beans among the children’s parents to take home and provides no meal at school. Many of the kindergarten parents have kids in grade school and, during the meeting, they asked why the grade school wasn’t included. Fernando explained. Obviously, the mothers are not happy with the principal.
Fernando included the kindergarten and picked other schools to make the 1,200 to 1,300 student quota.
Fernando says the temporary principal is really remorseful and would like to set up an afternoon meeting. Fernando explained that he has no room at this time. Fernando thinks the temporary principal is just lazy. Several of the mothers have asked Fernando if we could please provide milk to just the 1st graders. Fernando relented (as any one of you would have).
Fernando believes the temporary principal is just lazy and that the mothers would line up behind the program and make it work. And, finally, no, we have no idea when or if the full time principal will return. It could easily be 1 ½ years out. I really do not like the existing arrangement. What happens when the government doesn’t make some shipments? We will have 1st, 2nd, and 3rd graders watching as kindergarten kids line up to be fed?
My idea: Fernando set up a meeting through the temporary principal with the parents while I am here. I will explain that every child must be served a lunch in school every school day, period. If the parents can demonstrate that they can coordinate this effort on their own and if the temporary principal can provide the necessary accounting information as required by Fernando, we will include the school. If the parents cannot manage this coordination and complete meals are not provided every school day or if the principal cannot provide necessary accounting data, we will pull the program from the school. This will increase our student count from someplace around 1,320 to around 1,375. While we’re not sure how we will support L4L over the second half of the year, 50 to 70 students will not be the determining factor. OK, boys and girls, a little bit of help here.
12:30PM Finally caught up with the Alcalde Zalosques at his house. After nicities, I asked about arrangements for funding the kitchen. He said money is not being released by the Central government and blamed it on the financial crisis and the present government troubles. He asked about simply doing our half and stopping till he had the money. We said we could not and Fernando explained why. A great deal of this conversation is being carried by Fernando because the Alcalde speaks very rapidly and has a local accent. After more discussion, he says he thinks he can arrange the money next Monday. Neither Fernando nor I believe the money will come during this kitchen project. We must plan to carry the entire burden.
2:30PM Fernando and I drove to Los Almendros to check on the kitchen. It seems that our manager was working alone so the community leader scrounged up an 11 year old boy to work with him. The fathers of the children simply are not going to help. Once again, we’re doing this for the children first and the mothers second. We’re too far along to pull out. I told Fernando to hire three others to help our manager and to have them start working on Monday. If a community father shows, use him; but don’t wait for volunteers anymore. To date, our manager has been peddling his bike over 1 ½ hours to and from the site each day; I told Fernando to provide transportation for our work crew; that will provide more than 2 extra hours of work each day. Also, do not hire anyone from the community. We are not going to provide a kitchen and pay them to take it. Fernando will set it up. Our target finishing date is three weeks. Have learned a lot on this kitchen; this procedure won’t happen again.
4:30PM In the compound. End of day.
7:45AM On the road to Teguci.
9:30AM Just before you reach the South bypass intersection there is a congested area with communities, businesses and small shops. There are always a bunch of police in that area. No different today. It is customary (I think a law) that the drive roll his window down and drive very slowly when passing a check point. For some foolish forgotten reason, I had unfastened my seat belt minutes earlier and hadn’t gotten to refasten it. A cop in his mid-forties motioned me over to the side, asked for my license and registration. I gave him my (Honduras) license and he started writing up a ticket. He finally came over and gave me the registration and indicated where to sign. Before signing, I asked for my license as well. Remember my Spanish isn’t all that good but I got the gist of his explanation: he takes the license to the headquarters, I come down Monday, pay the fine and pick up my license. This isn’t my first trip to Honduras; I know that if I leave without my license I will never see it again. There is no way all the necessary paperwork and my license are ever going to be at the same place at the same time and you can write that down. So I got out of the car and explained as well as I could that I have meetings Monday; could I give him the money and he can deliver it for me. Since Monday is his day off, possibly I could give him a fee to deliver the money and simply let me take my license with me. Trying to stay focused, translate Spanish, and act like a reasonable person working toward reasonable solution actually had me a little edgy. Finally, he said he would talk with his boss. A tall (for Honduras) young 20-something Rambo type with impeccable well fitting uniform talked on his cell phone way past long enough to demonstrate his importance while the officer and I waited. After some discussion between them, the police went back with my license still in his shirt pocket, Rambo motioned a very junior female officer and turned this very unimportant situation over to her and walked away. She was very calm, reassuring, and very polite. Only problem; she talks really fast and I can understand almost nothing. I slowly get the idea that there is a solution; we go to a bank, get a cashier’s check, that she will take to headquarters on Monday and I leave with the license. Great! Let’s go! She gets in and I pull away and she starts talking a mile a minute and I understand there is some small complication (remember, my license is still in the shirt pocket of the cop on the beat). I pull off the road so I can concentrate on what she is saying. There may be an alternative way out of this, can she use my cell phone to call her boss. Absolutely (I’m praying that Fernando put enough minutes on the phone)! She talks for a minute. Here is what we can do, you give me the 400Lps ($20) for the ticket, I’ll get your license, and I’ll turn the money in on Monday; BUT, you must promise not to tell a soul because it would mean my job. My promise is genuine and sincere. I give her a 500Lp note and tell her we’re even. Oh no! She gives me 100Lps change (of all the times I’ve paid petty bribes, I’ve never gotten change back)! We headed back and she told me where to wait. She went to the beat cop and brought my license back. We both thanked each other for assistance/cooperation and off I went with my license. Incidentally, I never did sign the ticket. What just happened? Why all the footwork? It turns out that there are so many small digital cameras that a policeman doesn’t dare to take money from the mark. I was shuffled through 3 people and 4 locations, one location several blocks away over a 45 minute period. Nobody could keep up with all this. I obviously satisfied everyone that all I wanted was to get out of there. What happened to the good old days when you just give the cop $5 (for a gringo $10) and drive away? There may be problems in the President’s office but for the cop on the beat, it’s just another day.
10:30AM In the motel. The receptionist, the same receptionist that is always there, gave me a written “Aviso” and briefly explained it. Basically it says there will be no kitchen service or maid service tomorrow but everything goes back to normal Monday. It is believed there will be a transportation strike during the illegal elections and the staff may not be able to get to work.
5:00PM Ruby Tuesday for dinner, then to the mall to check the movies. Not interested in some kind of Terminator/Transformer movie so back to the room.
6:30AM Fernando called. The Military has taken over the Honduras Government and the President has been removed from power. I tried to get on the internet but couldn’t; nonetheless, that is common and probably has nothing to do with the political situation. I turned on local TV. All stations are projecting calm and advising everyone to stay in their houses for the day.
7:30AM Three really old jets, probably Korean War vintage flew over Teguci and the Hotel Guijerros at fairly low altitude.
7:40AM The local TV stations went off the air but all international channels (CNN Espanol etc) ase still on the air. Not sure if technical difficulties or action of the military.
8:00AM Rental car company was scheduled to pick the car up this morning. They just called and said because of the situation, they will come for it tomorrow but not to worry, they won’t charge me for today. For my part I told them not to worry, I won’t drive it today.
8:45AM I am watching CNN Espanol. Some reporter is downtown interviewing some demonstrators. Look past those yelling into the mike and you can see that the “crowd” is less than 3 deep and simply a sparse group of people beyond. Later in the interview, several individuals group together to yell some slogan toward the camera. Not impressed.
9:00AM CNN Espanol was just taken off the air while covering the Honduras situation. I now believe the military is stopping transmissions of any Honduras news, positive or negative in Honduras. Looks like I’ll get a lot of study time today. I’m not going to do it because I’m just not confident enough in my Spanish, but I am sorely tempted to take a stroll downtown just to see what’s going on.
9:50AM I just talked with the hotel security/doorman, he says everything is calm downtown, just a lot of meetings among powerbrokers. He says the biggest problem is that all the shops and restaurants are closed for the day and that is becoming a problem. Remember, this is a culture where everyone, even the affluent, shop every day for the day’s meals and people eat at small street vendor restaurants regularly. Shutting down food supplies for even a day is disruptive. They know me here; when I show up they put a few beers in the mini-fridge so I’m set for the day.
11:50AM Just checked the TV. Even foreign news stations, such as CNN, NBC, Headline News, etc., have been taken off the air. Just tried the little clock/radio/alarm in the room. There are only a few all-music stations. That could be normal for this cheap little radio, I never tried it before. Studied Spanish, whiled away the time in the hotel. Every once in a while, certain news channels like CNN would come on, once the news turned to Honduras, the channel would go off: It didn’t matter if the Honduras report was pro, neutral, or anti.
2:00PM All channels have the Honduras logo and certain channels are showing the Honduras Congress session. Speeches from the floor pledging to protect the Constitution. The projection of normalcy.
4:00PM After lots of rain, the power went out. I was standing out front talking with the security/doorman when a US light Colonial (who lives here with his family) drove up. He says that all is calm downtown but that the mall continues to be closed. I asked if any shops were opened. He said some were. I asked if Ruby Tuesdays, just a few blocks away was opened, he said it is. He said the official US position is that they do not recognize the newly formed government, “but” he added, “it is their country.” I asked why the US Government didn’t recognize the new government, after all, the President had broken the law and the new President is the next in line as per the Constitution. He agrees with my assessment and said he didn’t know, just US policy.
5:00PM Went to Ruby Tuesdays with my new (US) military friend. Just after ordering, he got a call from another military man. His wife flew into San Pero Sula and they just drove to Teguci. They have a room at the Marriot that is on the same block as the Presidential house. The hotel is cordoned off. He and his wife were invited to join us. They said commercial flights were coming in as usual and all of life is normal in San Pero Sula and on the entire drive to Teguci. They just happened to have reservations too close the Government buildings.
7:00PM There is a 9:00PM to 5:00AM curfew. Ruby Tuesdays is shutting down so they can be home by curfew. It is obvious they want us to leave. My buddy drove his buddies to the Marriot in their car, dropped them off as close as possible, and brought their car up to the Guijerros.
8:00PM In the motel, no power. End of day.
7:00AM Still no local or national news channels but hotel staff is here and road traffic is back to normal. Have talked to Fernando, Alexis (my Spanish instructor), and the car rental agent; all see this as just another Monday morning.
8:15AM Rental car agent came to pick up the car.
8:30AM At Spanish school. Alexis is there but it seems the school is closed for the day. We went to the hotel where we used a sitting room to study. Took most of the time talking about current events. Alexis doesn’t think things are any more or less safe that they a week ago. People go on with their lives; they have to.
1:00PM Walked to the local mall (actually, not what we would call a mall, just some shops within a walled compound) for lunch. Found some wheat germ at the grocery store, got a cab and came back to the room.
4:30PM Beer with some of the US Military (one navy, one army, one somehow attached to the embassy but I didn’t catch how – all foreign nationals from Latino countries). The news blackout has continued so word of mouth is the mode right now. Actually, all of the military has the latest communication gear so it is a pretty informed word of mouth network. The army guy is stationed at a downtown garrison (actually, office building) and saw the demonstrators (who were spray-painting vehicles, walls, and buildings red) pushed back with tear gas. The military has been instructed to only travel on official business till further notice and to wear civilian clothes when not on duty. There was some talk of a protest in San Pero Sula at a US military installation but most had heard nothing about it. There is speculation that Chavez got some Venezuelans into the country before the incident and they may be rallying agitators; sounds like conspiracy theories propagated by excitement seekers who want to be involved in an incident that is larger than it is. What will happen tomorrow? More activity, or will the thing start to sputter? Anyone’s guess. Local Liberal TV station comes on so we watch the government’s view for a while. Some pictures of a cameraman who was roughed up by the crowd (I got worse scratches working on my car) and comments about the outrage of such an unprovoked action. All said that the US would not cancel or alter scheduled aid to Honduras.
6:00PM Hector called to be sure I was all right and told me to call for anything. I thanked him for looking in but all is fine.
7:00PM Back in my room. CNN Estanol is back on so I saw the tire fire and tear gas footage. Trust me; that’s only downtown and wouldn’t even rate as a good disturbance in a US city. Hector is an academic/artist/activist type, I’ll ask him if he was downtown today and, if so, get his take on events.
8:00PA CNN Espano is already starting to run the same footage for the third time. End of day.
While my predictions of future events have been consistently wrong, I believe my sense of the immediate is still intact.
6:30AM Called Elise, per our discussion last evening, she had changed my return ticket for tomorrow and told me that ex-President Mel was saying he would come back to the country on Thursday. I thought to myself that will never happen but I’m going home a day before the threatened event and Elise is good with that.
7:00AM I called Fernando and said I was flying out Thursday. His assent indicated that he thought I was right in doing that. He confirmed that Mel says he is coming back to Honduras on Thursday. I asked if Fernando thought Mel would actually do that. He said he had no idea but if Mel comes back, things could get a little tense till the situation is settled. At breakfast I happened to run into the hotel owner, explained that I was leaving Wednesday and asked if she thought I should leave sooner. She qualified by saying “you never know, look how things have change so drastically from day to day; but, things will stay calm till Thursday then all bets are off; Wednesday should be just fine.
8:00AM In class. I asked my instructor if he thought Mel would come back on Thursday. He didn’t know. I said that if he comes back, he will be arrested, won’t he? He is not sure but if Mel is arrested, there will be a lot of immediate trouble and if he is not arrested there will still be trouble. I asked if leaving Wednesday is prudent. He said if demonstrations abate till Thursday, I’m ok but if they escalate beyond yesterday’s activities, roads could be blocked off pretty early in the day. I said “but all activity was centered in the downtown area yesterday”. He said that when he drove home at noon yesterday, he had to make two detours to avoid blocked roads. I said “maybe I should try for an airplane seat today”. He thought that was a good idea and volunteered to take me to the hotel then to the airport. Back at the hotel, I saw the owner again and said I was checking out to see if I can fly out today. She said that leaving this morning is a good idea.
9:15AM At the airport. A totally uneventful ride. Business as usual all the way. The only exception was that there was less traffic on the roads than usual for the 8 to 9:00AM period. At the airport, there is a really long line! Since I had no check in bags, I was ushered to the front (I have no idea why). A very helpful attendant helped me find a seat on a “full” flight to Houston. During the process I observed that she is very calm in front of this very long line. She said that after the events of the last several days, she decided to just relax and wait. “I really hope he (Mel) doesn’t come back, we just don’t want him here”. I am on standby to Birmingham but, right now, overnight in Houston vs. Teguci. seems like a good idea.
10:30PM Elise met me at the BBH Airport. We stayed over in BBH and drove home in the morning.
Blakely and Dylan are at the house so I am hanging around with them till later in the afternoon.
4:30PM Drove to Atlanta, signed in at Holiday Inn Express.
7:30PM In my room for the evening
4:00AM Up and getting ready
5:00AM On first courtesy van to the airport.
5:10AM Smugly walked past the ticketing/baggage kiosk/agents since I had left my larger suitcase with “stuff” in Teguci.
5:15AM At first security checkpoint, handed my passport and ticket to clerk/guard. She looked at the ticket then at the passport and asked “who is Margaret Elise Hicks?” I had inadvertently brought Elise’s passport! There is no way Elise can wake and dress two grandkids and drive halfway. Even if she could, I couldn’t drive halfway, return, and go through security/airport in a little less than 1 ½ hours. Drove back home and spent the day with grandkids. Elise changed ticket for tomorrow. Because of recent unrest, Continental permitted people to change tickets once at no extra charge.
4:30PM Drove to Atlanta, signed in at Holiday Inn Express.
7:30PM In my room for the evening
4:00AM Up and getting ready.
5:00AM On first courtesy van to airport.
5:10AM Not so smug this morning. It’s amazing how one screw-up destroys one’s self confidence. I was constantly checking that I had everything and always had that nagging feeling that I was forgetting something.
9:10AM When we buy children’s vitamins, I empty the cardboard container (that has already taken a beating from UPS) into a plastic 5 gallon pail I purchase from Home Depot. A small fraction (probably 2500 vitamins) won’t fit so I seal them in a plastic container and send them with Jorge. I carried them with me this time since I had room. While lined up to board the airplane, a group of customs agents instructed us to put our bags on one side of the aisle and stand on the other. Let’s hope I can explain 2500 pills. Then a drug-sniffing dog started down the line. What do vitamins smell like to a drug-sniffing dog? What type of processing residue is left on children’s vitamins? Unlike El Salvador, these guys are not going to be satisfied just confiscating the pills. Considering my luck of the last 2 days, I’ll spend the next few days in jail while the pills are tested. Now we know; drug-sniffing dogs (at least this drug-sniffing dog) can’t smell children’s vitamins. Can’t be 50 people on the plane. Never seen this flight when it wasn’t full. Apparently the upheaval in Honduras is having an impact on the traveling public. Called Enrique while in Houston. Enrique is a street-smart taxista (taxi driver) that I prefer to travel around Teguci with. No part of Teguci is off limits to Enrique; nothing phases him. He always knows what is going on and how to handle it. You want to go someplace; Enriqui will get you there, one way or the other. One caveat: Determine ahead of time, using other sources that you want to go to the desired location. Don’t depend on Enrique’s judgment; nothing is unsafe to Enrique. Once you have determined that you want to go, call Enrique.
12:30PM In the Hotel Guijerros waiting for rental car to be delivered.
4:00PM Car is delivered. Went (via taxi-I don’t know my way around Teguci that well; even if I did, a reliable taxista is much safer) to Restaurante Bodeguita Italiana which is really great if you know what to order. Wasn’t so lucky this evening, food was ok but not great.
6:30PM In the compound. End of day.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
7:30AM Taxi is there to guide me to the main road south.
9:30AM In Hotel Real Vista Hermosa (don’t understand the origin of this name-there is no view). Fernando knew I was coming so he met me at the motel. Drove to Los Almendros to check on kitchen. The kitchen will be finished today! Roof, floor, cooking stoves, steel doors and windows, all finished. The walls are being painted as we stand there.
12:00PM Fernando, Roxana, Juan Rosa, and I are having lunch in the motel discussing our 1:30PM meeting at Jose Angel Serr Elementary School ( see June 14, 2009, Sunday “Another little situation” to refresh your memory). We have a kindergarten without the adjacent grade school. I wanted us to all be looking at the same situation as I had no idea how things would shake out.
1:30PM It seems that the permanent grade school principal just returned to her duties yesterday and would attend the meeting. I was introduced to her. We got just the teachers together. Fernando brought a copy of principal’s letter requesting the involvement of L4L. I explained that it was her letter that brought us here but that the temporary principal (who didn’t show up for this meeting) wasn’t interested in the program and didn’t even coordinate a lunch program when beans and corn were provided by the government. I explained that L4L does not like a situation where kindergarten students are fed while grade school children watch. I requested this meeting so I could see for myself if something could be done. I explained that the L4L program requires a lot of extra work by the staff and that the principal is ultimately responsible. The principal must provide paperwork that L4L requires to Fernando, she must sign for all supplies, she must coordinate the mothers, and she must provide a lunch every school day. No excuses, no exceptions. This is a lot of work with absolutely no reward to the staff other than knowing the children have a nutritious lunch. I said that I see that the permanent principal has returned and I wonder what the staff thinks. The principal started “I want to thank God for bringing L4L here and I want to thank you for giving us a second chance. A lunch will be prepared here and given to the students every school day; that is what we always did (when provisions were provided) and that is what we will do as long as I am here (she purposely used the imperfect past tense which expresses an action in the past without specifying when).” This particular school has middle school (7th and 8th) in the compound. I explained that L4L is intended to help keep students in school through grade school. We do not have a program to feed children in grades above 6th, and asked if all understood. The middle school teacher (there is one teacher for all of middle school) said she understood the limitations but that the program will be so beneficial to the students in the lower grades that she will do anything she can to support the program. The parents have been gathering outside while we talked.
We invited the parents to join us. There were at least 35 parents (Fernando has the signup sheet) and 5 were fathers. There are only 70 students; almost every student was represented by a parent. I started out by explaining that I was here because we ended up with a kindergarten but not the grade school. Our program is set up to help thru 6th grade, It seems that many of the kindergarten children’s parents would also be the parents of the grade school children. It should follow that if there is a strong mother’s group in kindergarten, there should be a strong mother’s group in grade school. I wanted to talk personally with the school staff and the parents before L4L goes forward. The L4L program is not for every community. It requires that the parents prepare a school lunch that consists of a legume, a grain, a glass of milk, and a daily vitamin every school day; there is no acceptable excuse for not providing lunch during a school day. There is a lot of work for the staff and a lot of work for the parents and the only reward is a lunch for the kids, you and the staff get nothing else for your work. I must provide some background information: The Central American Latino culture is based on a very fatalistic mind set. People don’t expect things to get better; in fact, people clearly understand that things can, and probably will, get worse. People don’t expect assistance. People have to scratch for everything; they can’t provide assistance and don’t expect any. You cannot understand a fatalistic mind set by reading about it; you must work among it until you can feel it.
Back to the meeting: You have never seen such a group of stone-faced women. Everyone was simply looking forward with absolutely no expression on their faces and absolutely no light in their eyes. It kind of washed across me as I came to realize that they expected me to conclude that they don’t measure up and L4L would move on. I abruptly stopped laying the negative foundation and went to some kind of disjointed statement about that the staff and Fernando assured me that the community has a strong mothers group and we simply want their assurance that they will provide the necessary work to make the program work. Eyes lit up (I can’t say there were a lot of smiles, but, then, I seldom see many smiles during the course of a work day). I then introduced Fernando and turned it over to him. Fernando started out by saying something like “I want everyone who is prepared to work with the L4L program to raise their hand”. Everybody’s hand went up, even the men. Somehow, this also released a great deal of pent up tension. The meeting became much more informal and relaxed. Fernando talked for about 10 minutes then I took a chance. Roxana was with us. She hadn’t said a word. I could have left it that way but instead I said “Roxana’s school has been in the program since the beginning, possibly she can make a comment and answer some questions”.I was amazed! Roxana has a perfectly structured 15 minute discussion that addressed how the program works, what the program will do for your school, what you must do. Her delivery was authoritative, concise, and kept attention. It brought questions forward and her answers were direct and correct. For example, one parent asked if they could cook certain things at home and bring them. Roxana had the foresight to know that the principal wants all the cooking to be done on site. Roxana’s answer was “All of the food will be received on site, all food will be cooked on site, and all food will be eaten on site. Next question.” Jeff and Kristi have constantly counseled that we keep Roxana on the staff at some level just because she can present L4L in her environment. They are absolutely right! One question came up that that the BoD must comment: During Fernando’s discussion, a man raised his hand and asked if there was any way the program could provide something for some of the middle school kids that don’t get breakfast at home and walk so far to school. I stepped in and said “I’ll take that one.” I explained that the L4L philosophy is that if we can provide a lunch that permits kids to stay in school through 6th grade, than we have given the kids a better chance than if they had quit earlier. As you know, the needs are too big for any one group to handle. L4L concentrated on providing lunch through 6th grade. I must tell you that if L4L collects more funds we will support more grade schools, not middle schools. That being said, I will present your question to my BoD for comment”. The man clearly understood what I was saying but simply wanted to add some information. He said in a very respectful way “I’m not asking for all of the middle school kids, just those who walk so far. Several have to walk 4 kilometers. They have to leave so early and bring nothing with them. I’m only asking for a few.” I assured him that I would bring this up to the BoD but told him I don’t want to leave false expectations.
7:30AM Fernando and I are on our way to Teguci for milk, etc. Uneventful drive. Picked up supplies we needed. Stopped for a snack. Drove back to Nacaomi.
1:30PM Back in Nacaomi. Took the afternoon off.
5:00PM Drove to San Lorenz for dinner.
7:30AM Fernando and I are off to deliver supplies to 3 new schools where I have not met the principals. Very poor communities. Very pleasant teachers/mothers.
1:30PM Roxana’s daughter, Zareth, is celebrating her 18th birthday. Roxana invited us out for cake. Zareth and Roxana’s sister had gone to El Salvadore and needed a ride back. Fernando and I took a three wheel hack and met them where they were stranded. Fernando drove their car back. Going into El Salvadore, we just drove on through. Coming back, there was a lot of traffic so going was slow at the border. Someone in plain clothes with a badge and side arm motioned for Fernando to stop, Fernando ignored him and kept on driving. We were almost stopped due to slow traffic and a uniformed police stood to our right front. He signaled and shouted for Fernando to stop. I decided to do nothing and see how Fernando handled this. The cop demanded “Are you all Hondurans? (as if there was any doubt!). Roxana’s family said with an indignant tone, “we live right here.” The officer in plain clothes asked Fernando why he didn’t stop. Fernando said something about “because you don’t have any authority at the border.” The police demanded id from Fernando. Fernando asked him what ID he wants and why. The officer said he wanted to see his driver’s license since he was driving the car. Fernando took forever fumbling around for his license (obviously, on purpose) and finally handed it to the police who took an instant to confirm it was current and flagged us on. Nobody ever questioned what I was doing in the car! A little different approach to a border crossing than I am used to. Stopped by to see Waldina for a few minutes. Report cards come out in a week. I asked what grades she expects to get she gave me grades in the mid 80’s. We’ll see.
4:30PM It seems that a friend of Fernando’s who lives in Florida, purchased a used water ski and shipped it back to Nacaomi. Fernando and I drove to San Lorenz to pick the ski up and bring it to Fernando’s house.
7:00PM In the compound for the evening.
7:30AM Fernando and I drove to Los Almendreos to get some pictures of the kitchen in operation. On the way, I told Fernando to give our supervisor a $50 bonus. Without him, we would still be looking at a pile of blocks and sand. It is clear that Fernando thinks this is a good idea and simply wanted to be told. See pictures. I asked why some very poor communities are so helpful and others aren’t. Fernando says it is the school principal that makes the difference. I am sure that is the major contributing factor but I am noticing a trend where the mountain communities are more cheerful, friendly, and upbeat while the lowland communities are more closed, and less involved. We’ll see; while I can go to any of the communities with my L4L shirt, I would advise that you go with a local to some of the lowland communities.
9:30AM Stopped by to say Hi to Anabel and the sister she lives with. Both were home and glad to see us. Anabel looks more grown up and less like Popeye’s Olive Oil. She continues to get all “A’s”. A very pleasant and short visit.
10:35AM Driving along CA-1, toward the motel so I can pick up bags and head for Teguci. At the intersection where a paved road goes north to Langi, there was a road block. We were the 3rd car back! Ten minutes earlier and we would have gotten by! It seems that a bunch of teachers who are Zelya supporters put up a roadblock to disrupt commercial (or any other traffic) moving along CA-1 or to Langi.
Background: From time to time in the past, teachers have been treated poorly by the Honduras government. A few years back, the government simply didn’t pay teachers for about 3 months. When the teachers struck in protest, the government agreed to pay them so the teachers went back to work. The government started paying but never made up the 3 months lost pay. Another time the government agreed to a pay raise for teachers then simply didn’t pay the increase for 6 months. One of the concessions the teachers got written in their contract during this progression of poor treatment is that they can protest injustices for up to 2 days per week and still draw their total pay. Many teachers are taking off 2 days per week to protest injustices to Zelaya. This is one of those events. Fernando knows many of the teachers and others who are stopped by the “demonstration”. The teachers have put old tires, logs, and rocks on the road and had a line of “protestors” standing across the road with signs and banners. A “leader” is in the center at a pickup with a bull horn leading the group (hard to call them “demonstrators”, more like “picnickers”) in chants and songs. Its getting pretty warm and nobody is really into yelling too loud or working up a sweat. The “protest” is scheduled to last 2 hours. Fernando and I are mingling; having a Coke with some people, water with some others, just generally enjoying the camaraderie. The police arrive at the center of activities to see that everything remains orderly. Teachers are passing bags of water among the onlookers and police. A few army troops show up and take up positions along the road away from the activity. They are relaxed and simply being where they are told to be. They engage in calm conversation with truckers and other travelers. The policemen have some age and maturity; it was obvious they were there to maintain calm. Those army guys are so young! Nobody in their right mind would give them loaded rifles. I walked around confident that those kids in army costumes were carrying empty rifles. Fernando walked around taking pictures. A half dozen “protestor” teachers holding a banner caught on that Fernando was getting pictures of me at a “demonstration”. They started smiling and motioning me over so they could get in the picture with me. A good time was had by all. About an hour and a half into a two hour schedule, the “protesters” had had enough, after all, there is no shade in the middle of an intersection. They sang the National Anthem, pocked up all the tires, rocks, and sticks, picked up all the trash that had accumulated and lest the site just as they found it. If these “protestors” ever decide to do a Honduras Woodstock, I’m there!
12:00PM On my way to Teguci in anticipation of flying home tomorrow. Almost no traffic all the way to the southern outskirts of Teguci. So little traffic, there was an eerie feeling. I assumed it was because other roadblocks had held people back but I saw no evidence of this all the way to the hotel. News on the radio is still being filtered so one can’t rely on that. Traffic became congested, almost normal, at the southern side of Teguci. I never did figure that one out.
3:00PM In the Hotel Guijerro. I had ordered 20 pounds of coffee and the shop closes at 4:30. There was a cab sitting at the Guijerro so I showed him the address and asked if he knew the place. He said he did (what taxista ever says he doesn’t know an address?) so we negotiated a price, I climbed in and off we went. Big mistake! I should have called Enrique. I left the Honduras cell phone with Fernando and the taxista didn’t have one. We hunted down a friend of his who did have a phone; it didn’t have any minutes so we found a tienda that sells minute cards. He called the coffee shop and got directions. We had wasted a tremendous amount of time but the guy did know the city and could drive! We made it to the coffee shop with 10 minutes to spare!
5:00PM In the compound for the evening, end of day.
8:30AM At the airport. Only a few in front of me as we are in line ½ hour before the Continental gate opens.
9:30AM Ticket agent tells me the Continental flight has been canceled but she can get me on the American flight that leaves less than one hour after the Continental. She gives me the necessary voucher and I stand in the American line.
12:15PM On the flight. Now I see why Continental canceled the flight; there aren’t 50 people on this flight that is a combination of two flights! Unrest within the government is having a tremendous impact on travel to/from Honduras. Taxistas and merchants have been saying they too are feeling the impact; on this flight, I can see the impact.
10:30PM At home. Long but uneventful day.
End of Trip REH
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You can support Lunches For Learning online by using the PayPal secured link below. Simply enter the amount you would like to contribute and click the "Donate" button. *Your gift of $15 will feed one child lunch each school day for a month.
*Your gift of $150 will feed one child lunch each school day for a year. |
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