Jan 17

Written by: reh
1/17/2004

January 17, 2004, Sunday Elise and Becky arrived at 10:30 PM last evening.

9:00 AM We were all up and walking toward the main plaza eager to explore.

The main plaza and other plazas in the city are developed for, and cater to, family life. Each is surrounded by buildings built since the arrival of the Spaniards but older than any major buildings in the US. Early post-Columbian history permeates all of the city.

The Main Plaza is bordered by a huge and beautiful Catholic Church on the east side (I think). The Governor’s mansion is on the opposite side, and up-scale hotels and shops are on the north and south sides. Areas repaired after earthquakes, during re-modeling, and expansion are obvious on all sides of the church because of differences in rock or brick type and masonry characteristics. The Governor’s mansion is a large gray-stone structure with a row of stone columns forming a porch on the ground floor and the wall of the second floor. All of the hotels and shops have partially covered sidewalk cafés.

Walking through the various markets open to wholesale and retail buyers is worth the trip and is explained in graphic detail in most travel books. I want to devote my space to the after-dark plaza.

Mexican culture and family life still revolves around the evening. Families with children, teenagers “hanging out”, and old people strolling around, fill the plaza from sun-down until late evening. There are clowns and balloons for the kids, “modern” bands for the older kids, and traditional bands for the more mature. There are kids everywhere and lovers of all ages walking around, holding hands, sitting together. There are teen-agers hanging around in groups, some trying to catch the attention of that certain someone. Never once did I see an intimidating group of boys. This society, the police, and parents clearly would not tolerate such behavior. In Oaxaca plazas, night belongs to the family.

9:00 PM Becky, Elise, and I went to a nightclub two blocks off the main plaza. The band was in the basement. A balcony surrounds the basement and expands out into the main floor that is a restaurant. Another balcony above the main floor is primarily for relaxing with a drink, but some patrons were ordering a late dinner.

The band consisted of two 12 string guitarists. One player was the lead singer; the other provided harmony. Sometimes they just played, other times they played and sang. Two 12 string guitars playing off of, and building on each other was a moving, even sensual, event. Add a strong, mellow voice singing of true love or lost love, and the whole place was in absolute silence. I am glad Elise was there to share this with me.

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