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Thursday, November 20, 2008

The Motorcycle Diary
Jan 16

Written by: reh
1/16/2004

Pancho Villa actually purchased several motorcycles for his revolutionary army in 1913(+/-). It seems that he bought three or five Indian Motorcycles while in Albuquerque and had them shipped to Mexico (talk about a porous border). General “Blackjack” Pershing, the leader of the Buffalo Soldiers, was issued 20 Harley Davidson motorcycles at approximately the same time. These two leaders played tag along the border but there is no evidence that the bikes were involved in any action.

January 16, 2004 , Friday, 6:00 AM On the road. As I turned inland and started climbing into the foothills, there were many road changes. Road sign markings were poor to non-existent. GPS was off by 1000 right or left of the actual road too much of the time. I was compelled to stop and ask for directions often, which may have been a good thing. Everyone I talked with was helpful and personable and talkative. Stopping for directions became a pleasant diversion.

While the roads were poorly marked, they are well maintained; a biker’s delight. Everyone said to go south to Veracruz, then take the toll road due west so I’m off to Veracruz. As I moved south from Matamora, farming changes from cotton, soy, etc. to cattle, then oranges and, finally coconuts. The road turned toward the Gulf of Mexico, and I rode along miles of pristine white beaches with green-blue water. The only things obstructing the view were palm tree groves and tall thin pine trees. Wanted to stop but this, like Tampico, will have to wait.

Turned west at Veracruz, got on toll road and picked up the pace. Nice after all the small towns. Climbed gradually as I went inland. Stopped in Cordoba for the night. Stumbled onto the grandest privately owned motel. Raised area with king-size bed, sunken living room, even a bidet in the bathroom! Beautiful yards with Bird-of-Parodise, Easter Lilies, and lots of flowering bushes. Petals carried by the breeze swirling in corners looked like red and orange snow. And only $32!

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