By reh on 5/1/2006

On each visit to Honduras there is always some incident that re-strengthens my resolve to work with the L4L program. This past visit was no exception.

One objective of the recent trip was to visit each of the four schools we are adding to the L4L program (we are now feeding a total of 425 elementary school children lunch each school day at 7 rural schools). All four schools are at least a half hour ride on dirt roads off CA-1. The Honduras Government builds the school houses and pays the teachers. The local community provides maintenance and school supplies. The poorer the neighborhood, the poorer the school. A recent wind storm blew six panels off the roof of one school house. Once the local residents collect enough money to purchase new panels, the “care taker” will repair the roof. The total cost of the panels is $90. The community expects to have the necessary money collected in 6 to 8 weeks. Anyone who tours these poor rural communities quickly appreciates the signifi ... Read More »

By reh on 3/5/2006

Wednesday, April 5, 2006
9:00 Walked to open market and bought coins.
10:15 Jorge drove me to the airport.

The End

By reh on 3/4/2006

Tuesday, April 4, 2006
9:00AM Met with Reporter. Diana E. Valleho Baca
Col. Loarque
Casa 7315
8th Avda
Comzyaguela
divallejo@yahoo.com or dianuchav@yahoo.com
Cell 394-5672 home 226-8360. 

Very artsy, very collegian, very professional. She will write the script, then shoot, then edit/finalize. Any suggestions should be made before she shoots. Once she shoots, changes that cause more shooting will require another set of equipment rentals. She has already walked the poorest part of El Amatillo and interviewed a mother of two girls that attend school. Ms. Valleho is a published author and gave me a small paper bound book of poetry that she wrote. She also brought a photograph portfolio. If we decide to pursue this project, she is the one to do the work for us. I believe her when she says she is discounting her fee because she ... Read More »

By reh on 3/3/2006

Monday, April 3, 2006
8:30 to 11:15 drove to Teguci.
Walked to open market and bought some coins.
1:00 to 2:00 Met with the L4L lawyer, Juan Gusman. He brought his daughter, who is studying medicine at the university and speaks fluent English. Since he now understands that we want to become a recognized charity, and not to incorporate a new entity, he brought a checklist that more closely meets our needs. Main issues are:

• We must take a copy of our Articles of Incorporation and bylaws (English and Spanish) to the nearest Honduran embassy attaché office.
• We must develop a cadre of officers (am unclear at this point , but it may be four, President, Secretary, Treasurer, Advocate (Vice-president)). I will clarify through emails.
• Since I am the President of L4L and Roxana is our in-country responsible individual, we must pro ... Read More »
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  The Motorcycle Diary

By reh on 3/2/2006

Saturday April 2, 2006 7.00AM
Translator, Isel Rivas arrived and we headed to El Amatillo.
Stopped twice in an attempt to buy cell phone minutes and once for gas.
Arrived in El Amatillo at Roxana's house at 10.00. Roxana, Ewdard, Isel and I headed out to review schools.
1. North of CA 1 on dirt road to Goascoran (town Jeff and I went to looking for internet), cobble stone roads throughout town then dirt roads again. About 15 minutes north of Goascoran we came to the school. Neat, clean little two room school house. Water from a hand crank well. Obviously the school gets attention from parents and community.
2. Drove south of CA 1 (once we turned south we were on dirt roads, most un-maintained, for the 6 hours - including our lunch at a "restaurant at the intersection of two dirt roads, more on that later) small community school is clean and neat. The "grounds keeper" unl ... Read More »

By reh on 3/1/2006

Saturday April 1, 2006 6:00AM
A disjointed day. Arrived at airport with time but got a clerk who didn't have a clue and time started to slide. Left my traveling book {loose leaf binder with plane ticket, addresses, scheduled, etc.} at the counter.  Fortunately, a clerk brought it to the waiting area or I would have been lost. Inefficient but helpful.

Tegucigalpa at 12"45PM. New roll-out corridors, no more walking down steps to the tarmac, across the runway, and in a door. A new era is staring for travel to Honduras; it looks like they are adding a motel to the airport terminal as well as covered corridors. Jorge not there to help me thru customs, all bags arrived, Jorge met me out front. Drove to his shop to say "HI" to the family then to Leslie's Place to sign in.

Went to church {got there late}. Pastor Victor’s wife, small congregation. After service I asked to see Pastor Sch ... Read More »

By reh on 2/1/2006

February 1, 2006


Dear Friends of L4L

With the successful 2005 school year behind us at the Andrea Gonzales Elementary School in El Amatillo, Honduras, Lunches for Learning is excited about what we have planned in 2006.

In mid January, I was given the opportunity to represent Lunches for Learning Incorporated along with Ron Hicks and Dottie Gilbert (our translator!) on a trip to Honduras. Our goals during this visit were many but the highlights include delivery and installation of a computer that will be used to manage L4L activities, delivery of the nutritional supplements for the first half of the school year and site visits to the two new schools that L4L will be adding to the program in 2006.

After spending some time with Roxana, our “in-country” program Administrator, to assess the 2005 program and make plans for 2006, we headed out to visit the first of the two new school ... Read More »

By reh on 10/18/2005

A Reflection on Our Trip to Honduras
October 18, 2005

Children are children no matter where you go, and they are precious no matter where you go. When we walked onto the school grounds during our visit this past month the children came running with all the energy that children everywhere exude. They smiled and laughed and jockeyed for position. They sang for us, they recited poems for us, and they presented us with small tokens of their appreciation.

We had the privilege of eating lunch with the children (we ate around 10 am); our lunch consisted of a banana and a cup of corn and dried milk soup. As I drank the soup, I thought to myself this isn’t much of a lunch. I was wrong. I didn’t get hungry again until af ... Read More »

By reh on 10/18/2005

A Reflection on Our Trip to Honduras
October 18, 2005

     Children are children no matter where you go, and they are precious no matter where you go. When we walked onto the school grounds during our visit this past month the children came running with all the energy that children everywhere exude. They smiled and laughed and jockeyed for position. They sang for us, they recited poems for us, and they presented us with small tokens of their appreciation.
     We had the privilege of eating lunch with the children (we ate around 10 am); our lunch consisted of a banana and a cup of corn and dried milk soup. As I drank the soup, I thought to myself this isn’t much of a lunch. I was wrong. I didn’t get hungry again until after 4 in the afternoon. I remember commenting to Ron th ... Read More »

By reh on 9/29/2005

Thursday September 29, 2005
Jorge dropped us off at the airport at 10:00. The Pres showed up at 10:30 we talked till 11:30. Lindsay never did show up. Items discussed during this visit are combined with the conversation of Saturday at the church. Mainly, he says, he needs pastors. Mainly, I think, he needs the honest and sincere attention of the world Lutheran community.

Got home at 12:00AM

End of Trip

By reh on 9/27/2005

Tuesday September 27, 2005
Left for Amatillo at 8:00AM got there at 8:35AM. Gave Roxana gifts Elise sent. Anabel was there.  Talked with the two school principals:

• I explained that we are not sure we can expand the lunch program but would like to explain it to them and get their sensibilities about the idea.
• I explained we won’t expand the program until we are reasonably sure we can continue the program for the complete school year.
• I explained that we would provide milk, cup, vitamin, and food items not supplied by the Honduras government. In exchange we would expect to put a sign similar to the one that was put at Roxana’s school, the principals would be responsible for keeping records as Roxana does and for providing photos on a regular bases.
• I explained that Roxana would be in charge of the L4L program and asked i ... Read More »
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  The Motorcycle Diary

By reh on 9/26/2005

Monday September 26 2005
Arrived at El Amatillo at 9:30. Got some bottled water and were at the school by 9:45. The children lined the walkway and clapped as we passed by. We were given chairs and sat in the shade of the main building while the children stood in formation and sang some songs. Kindergarten first, then the older kids. Two older girls gave welcome speeches, one teacher gave a welcoming speech, then Roxana. She welled up as she spoke. Rather emotional. Pastor gave a short Thank You and then me. Had lunch (corn soup with milk broth, banana). Like Pastor said at 4:00 “We haven’t had lunch but I’m not hungry, that stuff really stays with you”. After sitting with the children for lunch (they sang a few more songs) I thanked Roxana and said we would be leaving. She asked if we could stay another 20 minutes, the children were going to break a piñata. I said we really didn’t have anything to do we just wanted to let her get back ... Read More »

By reh on 9/25/2005

Sunday September 25, 2005
Met the driver and interpreter at 7:45 and explained to the interpreter that his English is not good enough and gave him $5.00 for taxi fare home.

Esell has always been reliable – and late. She followed her pattern. She showed up with Celie Flores (who turned out to be a pretty good interpreter) at 8:30AM. Reliable and late. We were on the road by 9:00.

At Roxana’s by 11:00. Greetings and introductions. Anabel has moved out again. Home life is too confining and dull for her. Roxana gave each of us a glass of our dried milk.

Went to Tiger Island and sat on the balcony that overlooks the Pacific – much more pleasant than La Ceiba. Lunch program:

• Roxana is pretty sure that the federal program will continue through next spring, through the federal elections. After that is anyone’s guess.
... Read More »
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The Motorcycle Diary

By reh on 9/23/2005

Saturday September 23, 2005 
Driver and interpreter picked me up at the Maya Hotel at 8:20. Finalized arrangement:

• Vehicle, gas, driver, interpreter for $90.00 per day plus one room for both and food.

Picked up Pastor Jones at the airport. Jorge talked with the Director of Airport Security and we ushered Pastor into the Director’s office. We were through customs and on our way 10 minutes after the bags arrived. Drove directly to the Lutheran Church (Iglecia Cristiana Luterano de Honduras at Av. Centenario 19 Calle #518, Comoyaguela). We were graciously welcomed by a lay lady and a lay man that (I think) did clerical/administrative work for the church. We were told that services are at 3:00PM on Saturday and Sunday. I called Lindsay Mack on her cell phone and left a message. Went to the Hotel Maya, signed in, cleaned up, changed, and headed back for the service.& ... Read More »

By reh on 5/26/2005

You know the first part of the story, now for the rest of the story!

The last time Jeff and I were in El Amatillo the principal, Roxana, showed us around the school. She made a point of showing us the outhouse that has deteriorated. The roof has caved in, wooden door panel and wooden patrician had deteriorated and was gone. You have seen the pictures. Roxana humbly indicated that she would like some help getting it fixed.

Upon return, Jeff and I championed Roxana’s cause and found very sympathetic listeners among the Messiah family. Contributions from the choir sponsored Wednesday dinner and the L4L Wednesday dinner were combined and equaled approximately $235. Roxana had an estimate of $150 to fix the outhouse (I still believe the cost would be closer to $250).

I called Roxana last evening (May 25, 2005) and told her that the church choir had volunteered to fix the outhouse. We would send the money but she must keep ... Read More »

By reh on 5/14/2005

May 14, 2005

Lunches For Learning Partner
Address
City, State Zip

Dear Partners:

In early April we became concerned by the relative silence out of Honduras - no email communication, no pictures, plus we were expecting a request for additional funds and vitamins and we had heard nothing after the initial reports in February starting the new school year. We suspected Roxana was having difficulty with the technology and was afraid to voice this for fear it would jeopardize the program. Although we hadn’t planned for a second visit to El Amatillo so soon, when the subject was brought up in committee, we all agreed a trip was needed (1) to verify the program’s startup was on track, (2) to inspect supplies and the accounting ledger, (3) to examine the communications facilities and options for transmitting digital camera pictures, and (4) to provide some training in basic computer and email proced ... Read More »

By reh on 3/17/2005

April 17, 2005, 6:20 A.M.
Breakfast, drove to Teguc., met with Jorge and his wife, went to airport. In Atlanta by 10:30 pm and home by 2:30 am.

I left very frustrated that we got so little computer time but we take what we can get and make that work. Consult hand-written daily journal for more info.

By reh on 3/16/2005

April 16, 2005 7:45 AM
At the computer café in Nacaome. Jeff quickly realizes that this café has all the necessary equipment and hookups so he stays there to set up while I drive to El Amatillo to get Roxana and her daughters. At the computer café Jeff told me that the camera I left for Roxana has moisture behind the lens and cannot take clear pictures so photos of spread sheets is out. I said teaching Excel is not an option, I said I would leave my camera so go back to the practice routine. I took the girls shopping, swimming, etc while Jeff tutored Roxana. Available time simply did not permit Jeff and Roxana sufficient practice to develop a comfort zone for Roxana. The computer café owner said he will help Roxana any time she comes in.

Took Roxana and girls home and got to the motel at 8:15 pm.

By reh on 3/15/2005

April 15, 2005, 8:15 A.M.
At Roxana’s house. Drove to the school to take pictures. Roxana showed us the out-house. It is two stools over a concrete cistern. The building is a block building with a double door frame. One door for each stall. The door frame had long since deteriorated and been discarded. The roof had also been gone for years. One wall is leaning.

The school has no water.

Roxana stayed due to the L4L program.

Crossed the border to El Salvador, went to computer café. Electricity to the entire city was down till 3:00 we were told. Shopped around the bizarre, had lunch (sea food soup), went back to the café. Electricity was down till 5:00 or whatever. Went back to Roxana’s house.

Roxana’s daughters made a very well rehearsed plea for help for a 7th grade boy who is extremely poor and about to drop out of schoo ... Read More »

By reh on 3/14/2005

April 14, 2005, 4:30 AM 
Jeff’s brother, Bill drove Jeff and me to the Atlanta Airport. Atlanta to Miami to Tegucigulpa. In Teguc. At 12:30 PM.
Interpreter got our papers stamped without going thru the normal customs routine. While we were getting a car, Jorge Linares (our original contact) showed up. By the time we ate lunch, picked up the interpreter (who had to go home to pick up her clothes, why, I’ll never know), and stopped by Jorge’s office it was 3:30. Got to Roxana’s house at 5:30.

Half the school was waiting for us. They got into formation, held up signs and started singing! They had put together a little program for us! Even presented us with some clay pots they had painted. Several parents were also there. The welcoming party lasted about an hour.

Talked with Roxana about other poor schools that may want a similar lunch program.

By reh on 3/3/2005

The first day of the 2005 school year in Honduras was February 15. On that day, and each school day since, your L4L program has been feeding lunch to 100 children at the El Amatillo Elementary School (grades K through 6). The lunch consists of a bean burrito (beans for protein, flower for carbohydrates), a daily children’s vitamin and, since February 21, a cup of milk in a cup provided by L4L.

Our original budget for the 2005 school year was $15,000. We have $12,000 of the budgeted funds promised. We continue to solicit funds and are confident that our target of $15,000 will be reached.

Prior to a school lunch program, 85 children attended the El Amatillo Elementary School. Of these children, 60% came to school hungry each day. Now there are 100 students and all of the additional 15 come to school hungry. Since lunch is available, parents are sending their children to school rather than to a day-job that provides lunch as the day’s pay or beggin ... Read More »

By reh on 1/14/2005

By reh on 9/14/2004

September 14, 2004

And, finally, you probably thought the Hotel California is in someplace like, maybe, California. Not so! As this picture clearly shows, the hotel made famous in the lyrics of the Eagles’ song by the same name is actually located in the low-rent side of Tegucigalpa, Honduras, a barrio called Comayaguela.

By reh on 9/13/2004

September 13, 2004

The primary purpose of this trip was to finalize arrangements for Anabel for the next year. The trip rapidly settled into the tedium that comes with making arrangements for an 8 year old girl. We also rapidly came to know that little girls are high maintenance, regardless of origin.

By reh on 9/12/2004

September 12, 2004

We are not used to the level of security found in poorer Central American countries. There are armed guards at every establishment from Pizza Hut to mall department stores. Businesses such as banks, travel agencies and office buildings have an armed guard outside the locked entrance door and an armed guard inside with the key. The weapon of choice out doors is a shotgun with a pistol grip. The weapon of choice inside is an oversized 9mm pistol. The following pictures were taken within one block of the hotel:
     

 

Read More »

By reh on 9/11/2004

September 11, 2004


In the publication Let’s Go: Central America, Krutzinna, Benjamin et al, 2003, St. Martin’s Press, New York, under the heading Honduras, subheading Southern Honduras, page 446, our destination is described as follows:
“A thin expansion of Honduras runs south to the Golfo de Fonseca, giving the country all-important access to the Pacific Ocean. Travelers here are usually en route to some place else: both El Salvador and Nicaragua are an easy trip down the Carretera Panamericana. Traveling south from Tegucigalpa, a road heads west to the Salvadoran border at El Amatillo from the junction at Jicaro Galan.”

The Honduras map(International Travel Map, Honduras, Scale 1 : 750000, Joyce, Jack, 2000, ITMB Publishing LTD,) shows El Amatillo t ... Read More »

By reh on 3/26/2004

March 25, 2004

Walked to Vicky’s office (Cesar’s mother-in-law) to say good-by.

Tegucigalpa International Airport is small with few gates and only the basic accommodations. Flew out a little late.

Arrived in Miami a little late. Took long to process into the US. Missed my connection to Atlanta. Stayed over, flew out at 2:30 PM. Got home at approximately 7:30 PM.

The magnitude of what I am attempting to do without understanding why I am doing it made this day an emotional roller coaster.

By reh on 3/25/2004

March 24, 2004

Compiled notes all morning.
Cesar and his wife picked me up at 12:15. Went to a quiet mountain town with steep, narrow cobblestone streets and a white church with twin steeples and a view across a valley.

Went to another similar town that has become a weekend getaway for residents of Tegucigalpa. We stopped at a street vendor for a late lunch of dough that is filled with cheese and grilled. This is covered with a relish of sliced onions, peppers in a vinegar-based solution.

Cesar called the teacher, Roxanne, in the evening to see how the first day went. Anabell was a little late and ate everything in site. Anabel showed up for breakfast all scrubbed up and dressed for school. Apparently, the ladies made a special trip to get water to wash her up. The women even found two ribbons to put her hair up in two pigtails.

Roxanne had to explain Anabel’s return to school ... Read More »

By reh on 3/24/2004

March 23, 2004
Met Cesar’s father-in –law for a beer at a corner store where the owner sells bottles of beer and patrons stand around the street corner drinking the beer. Very interesting and well-educated man.

By reh on 3/23/2004

Cesar and I walked across Central America Highway 1 (CA-1) a few blocks from the border crossing on the Honduras side. We entered a white with blue trim block building that is a general store in the front room and a restaurant in the back. Cesar’s greeting with the woman behind the counter was friendly; he had had business dealings with the owner in the past. We each took a Coke from the upright cooler next to the door and found a table by a window. Once seated, I said ¨ You know I didn’t come this far just to buy a scrawny little urchin some school clothes. Now what in hell do we do?¨

It wasn’t supposed to be this way. I arrived at the house from my CA-1 trip on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 at 7:30 PM and finalized the trip log on Saturday, February 11. That was supposed to be the end. The trip log says ¨The End¨.

I don’t know why that little girl caught my attention. I have seen thousands of street urchins in many third worl ... Read More »

By reh on 1/27/2004

January 27, 2004, 11:00 AM, Tuesday

Epilog

Afoot and light-hearted, I take to the open road,
Healthy, free, the world before me,
A long brown path before me, leading wherever I choose.
Henceforth I ask not good fortune-
I myself am good fortune;
Henceforth I whimper no more, postpone no more,
Need nothing
Strong and content, I travel the open road
Walt Whitman, 1856

A poem commonly quoted by travelers. A poem I have always liked, but no
longer fits. I have already gone way too far down that brown road to claim
I am only starting, and I accept my good fortune with quiet humility, not as
an affirmation.

I think a more contemporary poet captures my mood and
better fits my station in life:

I have faced ... Read More »

By reh on 1/26/2004

January 26, 2004, 7:00, Monday Ate a slow, relaxing breakfast. Set up the bike for shipping, got a plane ticket for tomorrow.

On street urchins: I pray the same God that guided me through a fool’s errand of my own choosing will guide a dirty little girl with straight teeth, dark freckles on brown skin, and no smile, on the Honduras border. Surely it is obvious to Him that she is more deserving than me. If you prayed for me, while I was on my trip, then pray for her. Surely your prayers helped me during my folly. Possibly you prayers can help her.

On border crossings: The border crossing process is a scourge to Central America and a real source of embarrassment to those Central Americans that know the system. Most Central Americans never cross borders so they aren’t aware of this national scandal. Most travel books refer to the quaint process where one gives his passport to a runner who gets them through the ... Read More »

By reh on 1/25/2004

January 25, 5:30 AM, Sunday No message from the Beemer riders. I decided to press on. If I wait for them to get up, the Costa Rica group may have already left, and I would be alone with a late start. I wanted all the daylight I could get, just in case. I was on the road at 6:30. To go around Managua one goes about 5 kilometers east of the airport and Best Western motel, away from town and then turns south. You turn southward at Tipilapa. Then southwestward at Masaya. Next, turn a little more westward at Catarina and meet up with CA-1 at Guanacaste. Managua’s version of a bypass. The road has some potholes and lots of pedestrians so I did not rush. In Guanacaste I decided to fill up one last time before the Costa Rican border, which is 120 miles ahead.

I filled up and paid the attendant. All through Central America there are attendants to pump gas and collect the charge. I then pulled away from the pumps and parked on the macadam apron so that I could go inside for a bottle ... Read More »

By reh on 1/24/2004

January 24, 7:00 AM, Saturday The Managua Best Western motel is directly across the boulevard from the airport. It consists of several hundred “bungalow” style rooms in a large fenced compound with the obligatory bars, restaurants, work-out room, etc. The rooms are filthy and the help, while outwardly pleasant, is not helpful. The only reason this place prospers is because of its proximity to the airport (you know what they say about location).

The super-bike races would be this evening. We had parted the previous evening saying we would meet around the restaurant during the morning to arrange plans for the evening bike races.

7:00 AM
I left a load of dirty laundry at the desk with the assurance that it would be back by 3:00.

9:30 AM
I met one of the riders and his wife and daughter at a patio-restaurant. He intended to spend the day shopping with his family. We determined that we would meet ... Read More »

By reh on 1/23/2004

January 23, 2004, 6:30 AM, Friday Josi drove up with Tony, his sister and his mother. I assumed they were going to shop in the city for the day. We loaded the bike. We all piled in and off we went!

Poverty increased. Any evidence of reasonable living conditions decreased. About 30 miles south of San Salvador, Josi pointed to a dirt road and said he was raised three kilometers up that road. He said that the flatlands we were going through were once planted in cotton, “It once looked like an ocean of white when the wind blew. Now look at it (reclaimed to desert scrub brush)”, Josi commented. “What happened?” I had to ask. “The war came. One side would say ‘Plant’. The other would say ‘Don’t plant’. If you took a side the other side would kill you. We moved to where my mother now lives.” Josi continued, “I left for the States at 17 with $25. That was in 1976. I took advantage of the Reagan amnesty deal, and am a US citizen.” I asked if coming home is a good feeling. “It alway ... Read More »

By reh on 1/22/2004

January 22, 2004, 6:30 AM, Thursday (I think) I didn’t sleep too well last night. John’s observation and advice didn’t go down well. It didn’t fit with my observations either.

Josi and Tony guided me to the San Salvador Holiday Inn where I got a room. Josi is a cook in California. He has been there for 25 years and comes back about twice a year to help his mother and sister maintain the home-place. He needed a pickup for a few days. Day rental rates are half as much as a week rate. He said that if I were willing to rent a pickup for a week, he would agree to haul me, and the bike, to the Nicaraguan border. He would stay with me until I was in Nicaragua (that’s two crossings), whether it took one day or more.

An aside: I thought I needed Spanish so I could get directions, order food, etc. Not so, some finger pointing and jesters are sufficient. Fluent Spanish is needed to get past border crossing clerks.

Josi and his f ... Read More »

By reh on 1/21/2004

January 21, 2004, 7:00 AM, Wednesday. Left the motel. At the border crossing by 7:15. There is an odd procedure for getting through Central American border crossings. All of the border crossings are full of thieves, leaches, and rogues. The many clerks (numbered in the 10s) that must act upon various paperwork is confusing to even the seasoned travelers. Clerks are totally unsympathetic to foreigners who speak poor Spanish. They bark out a command and move onto the next person (I will never be critical of US bureaucrats again). I was compelled to give my paperwork (passport, license, insurance papers, etc.) to one of the hundreds of “runners”. Young men, from 15 years old to 35 years old, who run from station to station getting necessary stamps, copies, authorizations and requiring money for every step. When the runner was done with my paper work and having spent $180 of my money, he stood about three paces away, holding my passport and demanded $50 dollars US! My choices were.....
< ... Read More »

By reh on 1/20/2004

January 20, 2004, 6:30, AM Tuesday

I left Oaxaca. Rode south staying in the high basin that is Oaxaca then traversed 100 miles of curves with the added third dimension of steep ups and downs. All well maintained two lane roads. I did not ride aggressively; my mind was with Elise in Oaxaca. Lost altitude rapidly until I was traveling along a coastal plane. The rather flat, almost deltaic lowlands run from around Magdelena in Tequisistlan province to Arriag, which is a coastal town in Chiapas Province. The road turned east and gradually climbed into nondescript foothills, neither coastal nor the Sierra De Soconusco Mountains.

The day before leaving the Doctor had left a message that I should stay at the Kamico Hotel in Tapachula. After arriving there, I should ask for John. He will ride with me for a while.

Tapachula is a very old, primarily Indian city. It is close to a porous border that runs from a narrow ocean coastal plane ... Read More »

By reh on 1/19/2004

January 19, Monday Zen and The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance is widely read but, in my opinion, seldom understood. Many think it is a story of a turbulent relationship between a man and his son. Not so. The father simply wanted his son to understand that he (the father) is not crazy, though society says that he is and the son simply wanted his father to affirm to the son that he (the father) wasn’t crazy. Others think it is a chronicle of a cross-country bike ride where the author describes every malfunction of the bike. Not so. All of the breakdowns were minor and easily fixed. The journey is a backdrop for Pirsig to explore some philosophies of life. He concludes that there are two components of a meaningful life: Quality and Value (as in worth doing, not dollars). Oaxaca is Pirsig’s city.

January 19, 2004, 9:00 AM, Monday The Guzzi dealer in Oaxaca is too far from the hotel to walk so I rode over. The storefront and showroom are very clean and well lit, very up-scale. I ... Read More »

By reh on 1/17/2004

January 17, 2004, Sunday Elise and Becky arrived at 10:30 PM last evening.

9:00 AM We were all up and walking toward the main plaza eager to explore.

The main plaza and other plazas in the city are developed for, and cater to, family life. Each is surrounded by buildings built since the arrival of the Spaniards but older than any major buildings in the US. Early post-Columbian history permeates all of the city.

The Main Plaza is bordered by a huge and beautiful Catholic Church on the east side (I think). The Governor’s mansion is on the opposite side, and up-scale hotels and shops are on the north and south sides. Areas repaired after earthquakes, during re-modeling, and expansion are obvious on all sides of the church because of differences in rock or brick type and masonry characteristics. The Governor’s mansion is a large gray-stone structure with a row of stone columns forming a porch on the ground floor and the w ... Read More »

By reh on 1/17/2004

Pancho Villa actually purchased several motorcycles for his revolutionary army in 1913(+/-). It seems that he bought three or five Indian Motorcycles while in Albuquerque and had them shipped to Mexico (talk about a porous border). General “Blackjack” Pershing, the leader of the Buffalo Soldiers, was issued 20 Harley Davidson motorcycles at approximately the same time. These two leaders played tag along the border but there is no evidence that the bikes were involved in any action.

January 17, 2004, Saturday, 7:00 AM Slept well, slept late. Got on the toll road and headed west. There, abruptly in front of me, were the steepest most rugged mountains. Fortunately, I turned in for the night when I did because I was way too tired the afternoon before and there is no way off the road until the top.

The road twists and turns up these mountains. Around one curve and I look across to four switchbacks up the side of the next incline, and this is a divided highwa ... Read More »

By reh on 1/16/2004

Pancho Villa actually purchased several motorcycles for his revolutionary army in 1913(+/-). It seems that he bought three or five Indian Motorcycles while in Albuquerque and had them shipped to Mexico (talk about a porous border). General “Blackjack” Pershing, the leader of the Buffalo Soldiers, was issued 20 Harley Davidson motorcycles at approximately the same time. These two leaders played tag along the border but there is no evidence that the bikes were involved in any action.

January 16, 2004 , Friday, 6:00 AM On the road. As I turned inland and started climbing into the foothills, there were many road changes. Road sign markings were poor to non-existent. GPS was off by 1000 right or left of the actual road too much of the time. I was compelled to stop and ask for directions often, which may have been a good thing. Everyone I talked with was helpful and personable and talkative. Stopping for directions became a pleasant diversion.

While the roads ... Read More »

By reh on 1/15/2004

January 15, Thursday, 6:00 AM At the border crossing between Brownsville and Matamoras. Drove into the inspection area behind the main border crossing checkpoint. The inspection area is an enclosed parking lot with larger than normal parking spaces. Walked inside the building and started the processing procedure which took almost no time. At the first window, a man checked my passport, driver’s license, and copy a credit card (which does not leave one with a real comfortable feeling). I paid a $25 fee. I carried paperwork to another window where a clerk did some processing, and charged a $25 fee. At the inspection site, there was no one on duty so I just drove through. The moral of this story is to get to the border crossing before normal work hours.

Matamoras is a typical US/Mexican border town with some appeal to a day tourist, but just another border town to ride through for me. I was well south of the town and riding through the countryside within 35 minutes. The terra ... Read More »